Starting surfing at 40+


Starting surfing at 40+I’m a firm believer that it’s never too late to start anything you want in life. You can start over, each morning and do whatever you want.

I don’t define myself or what I want to do by my age. I think it is how you feel in your own skin that matters…You can be a fit, healthy chick in your fifties and a couch potato in your twenties. You can be a cancer or depression survivor and then turn your life around in a matter of months. My friend Vicky is the former and she is now a kick-ass fitness instructor in Gloucerstershire who is impacting positively on the lives of many women. I even got inspired to start running again just by seeing her regular posts on Facebook.

Being comfortable with my agewrinkles and fine lines is one of my great achievements. Yes, sometimes my skin is dry, some nights I drink too much, don’t sleep enough and look like hell but generally speaking, I’m OK with who I am and I credit this mostly to what I eat (hint, hint) and the lifestyle changes I’ve made over the past four years.
I have still work to do to be comfortable with my kilos but that’s ok, we all have our hang-ups and having lost my dad only six months ago, I have decided to cut myself some slack for a while. Nobody is perfect and I certainly don’t aspire to be perfect. I just want to feel good in my own skin and grow old gracefully and in good shape.

So today Mila and I are starting surfing lessons again. We had done it twice in Devon in the past and last year we did a week-long course in Cap-Breton.
I’m excited! There are so many health benefits but the thing I mostly enjoy about it, is that it’s one thing we can do as a family and each time we did, we had lots of fun and this time, it’s a mother/daughter thing and I’m really looking forward to quality time with Mila.

I’m also very much looking forward to swearing when I have to put my wetsuit on and to more swearing when I have to carry my heavy board over 500 m (cool, short surf boards are for pro not beginners), to have wet hair so tangled that I will look like a wet poodle, to knock myself with my board, drink enough salted water to fill up a fish tank and be so tired that I won’t be able to lift my arm to grab a glass of water but eventually, this will all lead me to a great feeling of achievement when I will be able to stand up and ride a wave again.

How are you feeling about getting old? About starting over? About starting something new? Excited, scared, worried?



//Photography: Roxy Facer IG @roxface, wetsuit from Amuse Society


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